These islands are open to 360-degree swells, emanating from the northern hemisphere during the winter months, and the southern hemisphere during summer. These transatlantic swells hit denticulated coastlines hard and fast, taking shape in mammoth reef breaks, generating a great deal of motion within the water. Analogised as a temperate Hawaii, missions to the Azores are not for the faint hearted, nor inexperienced. The nine different islands that make up the Azores archipelago are a part of Macaronesia, and lay at the intersection of a triple continental junction – where the Eurasian, American, and African tectonic plates meet in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. As these plates spread apart new land formed, taking the shape of dramatic summits and deep ravines while providing generative land that supports the development of rich, often unique ecosystems.

The Azores archipelago – or Açores in Portuguese – has remained largely out of the spotlight. When a cluster of small islands is veiled by some of Europe’s most seminal spots, such as Nazaré and Ericeira, and 840 miles of Atlantic Ocean, this is hardly surprising. Raging currents, sharp volcanic reefs and tactical take-offs, reserve the majority of these coastlines for those who are ready and willing to work for their waves – and most importantly know what they’re getting into. Regardless, the hollow reef breaks of Sao Miguel will engrave themselves in your mind, particularly if caught on a northerly swell.

The fickle nature of these waves was evident in the 2022 cancellation of the WSL’s qualifying series at Santa Barbara, where swell was not in short supply – simply too dangerous for the world’s elite. These islands have attracted some formidable individuals, one being the ever-modest yet pioneering ISA competitor and Olympic committee member Afri Amu. The first surfer to come out of the conflict-ridden and land-locked Afghanistan, Afri encompasses the kinship, harmony and appreciation for nature associated with surfing.

“I can’t even put it into words”, he says of his affinity for these islands. “It’s like a magnet, hard to grasp. The wild roughness is unlike typical tropical islands, with it being in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. When I was younger, islands like Fiji and Bali were my dream, but now I don’t appreciate the constant heat of these places. It gets repetitive. Here, we have all four seasons of the year in one day – I know this is something a lot of people dislike about the Azores, how damp it is. It is unpredictable, but it gives me an awareness of the outside. I really like the constant change.” Afri lives on São Miguel, where locals have a close circle. “Obviously, everywhere that is not totally empty has tension between the locals and people that come to surf. It’s simple, the more people at a spot, the less waves everyone gets. There is always an atmosphere of some kind, wherever you are, but this place is not as empty as it was many years ago, and the shift in tension reflects it. At the end of the day, it’s all about how you approach people. I always try to get to know the person in front of me, as once you do this, you can begin to understand each other and that tension can begin to disappear.” In true Afri style, his take on the community is relaxed and positive. “I love the community here. I always try to not only pay attention to the surfing, but actually be present with the person I am sharing the water with. Everyone should be aware of it.”

The volcanic village, aptly named Furnas, is nestled in the center of a rainforest-topped crater that holds a myriad of monumental waterfalls and calderas. Parque Terra Nostra is the site of a giant geothermal pool, surrounded by a striking collection of endemic palms, ginkgo trees, and a rich volcanic creek streaked with green minerals that feels otherworldly. However, it’s the ancient Laurisilva rainforests that present the staggering antithesis of what comes to mind when considering volcanic ecosystems. These prehistoric rainforests are teeming with mosses, intricate biotic relationships, and captivating kaleidoscopic greens. Endemic to the archipelago, these rainforests are virtually wiped out. Their rarity adds an eerie infliction to their beauty.

Once, as with the rest of Europe, including the UK, these rainforests once covered the majority of the terrain prior to the arrival of humans and are said to be some 15 million years old. Many causes have resulted in the erosion of these forests. In the 19th century, wealthy Azorean land owners competed between each other to show off their skills, creating botanical gardens littered with alien and invasive species that have slowly decimated their surrounding rainforest. Between 1990 and 2000 the Azores saw 50% of these forests stripped into pasture for grazing cows, reared for beef. As of this year, 2% of their original cover remains. The Azores make up a finely balanced ecosystem – literally and socially. The rainforests are teetering on extinction, yet there stands hope with developing respect and restrictions in place to save them. The same can be said for the local surf community. The islands are at a junction in time, where external curiosity for the waves is growing. With this, a mindful approach must be taken to preserve the area for those who call it home, and ultimately who surf these dynamic breaks the best – and safest – of anyone.